DUBAI: Lebanese designer Elie Saab showed off his latest collection at Paris Fashion Week on Saturday, treating the well-heeled front row to a demure array of monochrome dresses with a few pops of color spotted on the catwalk.
Saab’s Fall-Winter 2020-21 Ready-to-Wear collection was, for the most part, monochrome — a theme broken up only by flashes of sea green and electric ultramarine. And with voluminous flared pants and oversize coats — with the proportions of a full skirt — this collection was a more covered up affair than usual from the normally skin-baring designer.
Yet feminine styles abounded, such as in a pair of marl “skorts” — a shorts-cum-skirt garment — twinned with thigh-high boots. At times, however, the oversize styles in the sleeves and torso visually overpowered the models’ bodies, The Associated Press reported.
Bows also featured heavily in the new collection — from oversize silk floppy ones to small tight stiff ones. They appeared as the motif for a retro display that was more sober than usual, with fastidious detailing such as face veils, flared cuffs and flounce.
Boardroom appropriate punctuated Saab’s usual display of dazzling evening gowns — although there were gowns aplenty — with black-and-white tweed skirts and grey woven jackets drawing interest from the crowd of celebrities and fashion insiders.
From Lebanese influencers Lana El-Sahely to Natalie Fanj, the region’s style set was out in full force as Saab revealed his newest creations.
Both bloggers documented the sartorial offerings on Instagram Stories, treating their combined 1.1 million followers to all the latest trends on Saab’s dramatic catwalk.
Feathers made a comeback in the collection, with floor-grazing gowns sporting sproutings of monochrome feathered detailing across the length of the dress. The designer’s typical love of tulle was also on full display, with crimson, embroidered tulle gowns breaking up the sea of black pieces showed off by the models.
Saab’s decision to go ahead with his latest showing came in stark contrast to French designer Agnès b., who announced she will cancel her Paris Fashion Week presentation “in view of the current international health context,” on the new coronavirus out of an abundance of caution.
Instead, an online statement from the house said that “film and photographs from the men’s and women’s Winter 2020-21 collection will be online Tuesday, March 3.”
Paris’ fashion federation said earlier this week that six Chinese brands canceled planned events in Paris because of the outbreak. The absences — of Masha Ma, Shiatzy Chen, Uma Wang, Jarel Zhang, Calvin Luo and Maison Mai — produced gaps during some days’ normally back-to-back calendar shows.